Friday, July 1, 2011

New Map of Milan!

The Last Supper

I am left speechless. How can I justifiably describe one of the greatest pieces ever made by Leonardo Da Vinci without missing something?  As we were walking through the city we took a turn and saw parts of the old city surrounded by modern buildings and architecture. It is something that will always amaze me how a building can tell such a strong story, especially in ancient cities.
The Last Supper, was created from 1495-1498 on an entire wall of the refectory room or dining room in the Covent of Santa Maria delle Grazie which was requested to be painted from the Duke of Milan, Ludovico Sforza. Once we entered the monestary, we had to move from a litte holding area to another holding area until the automatic doors opened into the sacred room. I looked ahead and didn’t see anything,  I was looking for a framed painting like the Mona Lisa. I looked to the right and I found it. All 15X 29 feet of it! It takes up the entire side of the wall!  This is an experience that everyone must have in Milan, the intial feeling when I first saw it, is priceless and irreplaceable! The piece was so large that when I walked to the panel, I had to tilt my head. Each expression was easily visible, the body language of each disciple were all identifiable emotions. The Last Supper depicts the evening before Christ was betrayed by one of his disciples, (Judas) where Christ gathered them together to eat, tell them he knew what was coming and wash their feet (a gesture symbolizing that all were equal under the eyes of the Lord). As they ate and drank together, Christ gave the disciples explicit instructions on how to eat and drink in the future, in remembrance of him. Just what Christian’s and Catholics do at church when receiving bread and drinking the wine.  Feet were visible under the table and twelve different reactions to the news different degrees of horror, shock and anger was brushed by Leonardo Da Vinci.
Closer image of The Last Supper
Leonardo Da Vinci
The Last Supper
Jesus 
Three Disciples





Leonardo Da Vinci, being the natural inventor that he is, decided to use dry plaster on whirl, instead of using tempera on wet plaster causing it too gradually flake off over the centuries causing people to continually attempt to restore it ever since.  His innovation and trying to create a new way of painting can be related to the ways designers try and create new fabrics, patterns or cuts for a season. It may work or may not work but the creativity and the belief is there. In my Apparel Analysis class we had to create our own garment from scratch and had no rules. The first reaction was shock because I had absolutely no idea what to do but through each step I started to create a dress that I had no clue how it would look until the end. I had to make something completely new and believe in it even if I didn’t know what the end piece would look like.






Later that night, I had another last supper but this time it was with everyone form the program. The night was filled with loud, long and crazy laughs, tears but it was all from talking about all of the memories and relationships we’ve made along the way. This program has reassured my innate aspiration for fashion. I was able to eye witness numerous areas of the industry by going to industry visits, understood the Milanese culture to the best of my ability and can now bring all that I was exposed to, trained to analyze and observe and translate it into my career.

Thursday, June 30, 2011

Instituto Secoli

  Milan is full of art, design and fashion schools and they all have a unique career objective or specialty. The Instituto Secoli crated in 1934 was made mainly for people with careers and wanted to enhance their trait. The president of the University, Stefano Secoli, generously gave us a lesson on prêt-à-porter and the difference between Haute Couture. The university is particular because it is located in a very powerful fashion city, something that Stefano Secoli prides himself in.

            Firstly, an Atelier creates Haute Couture and the industry creates prêt-à-porter but the one area they both have in common is fashion shows. Haute Couture is extremely different because it is made for one specific person, that is what makes it so desirable and unique while prêt-à-porter creates more than one piece.  Untill 1968,  fashion was only done by an Atelier until the relationship between the stylist and the designer became extremely important. Armani and Facci believed the middle class also wanted fashion therefore prêt-à-porter blossomed.  Unlike Haute Couture where if one sees it, it can easily be copied or replicated prêt-à-porter items have a patent for each garment in each size and is never seen until the fashion show.
            There is a longer and more detailed process for prêt-à-porter designers where the stylist has massive power on the overall future of the collection.  If I were a designer for prêt-à-porter I first:
  1.      Must come up with an idea or inspiration
  2.      Design a collection
  3.      Work with Product development
  4.      Patterns must be chosen with stylist to say if they like it or not
  5.      Samples must be created for the fashion show and patents must be made for each garment
  6.      Orders from buyers
  7.      Production (before production it is necessary to create more patents for each size)

Stefano Secoli mentioned now, in prêt-à-porter there are no tailors because it always made out of the country except for Giorgio Armani where their production house is in Milan while Haute Couture have tailors that make each garment. This would be simple but everything is new like fabric and patterns therefore each one needs a patent. Tradition used to be that the designer or tailor was the producer but now, since people are retiring and new technicians enter, the quality might change because they do not have the same talent as the originals have.
  Stefano Secoli focuses on industry before academics because it is more practical for his type of student who already works in the industry. He justified this by showing us around the university. 
A Touch of Nature
Class of 2011
   We were able to watch the fashion show each student participates in as their final project to graduate than later actually saw some pieces from the collection! They were all so beautifully crafted and I’m sure each piece is precious to them. Also, in Apparel Analysis we had to make a complete outfit and learn how to make a pattern piece. When we went around the school, we saw students learning how to make pattern pieces for each size. I never had the chance to do one for each size but I recognized the material and process.  visit gave me a more detailed understanding of prêt-à-porter from a Milanese perspective and can now appreciate fashion shows much more knowing all of the other details needed to complete a collection.



On June 29th

Cercare I Nostri Sensi cultural assignment #3 Unique stores around Milano

    Our cultural group was sent on an adventure to find 4 selected stores that were unique to their own kind. The purpose of our visit was to seek out why we were sent to these stores and the kind of impact it will have on the industry that we are entering.



    The stores all showed different form of craftsmanship, which allowed us to get a better understanding and appreciation for Italian goods. From visiting the stores we recognized that fashion just isn’t in the form of clothing but also found in hardware, home goods, and other necessities.
     In the industry today fast fashion and poor quality over powers unique and good quality items. In each store we were exposed to high quality merchandise and elements of handmade products. Uncovering the difference poor quality and good quality will benefit us in any field of the industry we choose to follow.


















Giuggiu Di Caputti is a small quaint jewelry store that holds many beautiful handmade pieces. She makes high quality custom jewelry with unconventional materials and designs.  Accessories and jewelry are two categories that would sell well in any culture and market. We envision this store being in the Soho area of New York City because the pieces are creative and artsy. 






















Venini was filled with colorful vases, lights, chandeliers and figurines all made of Murano glass. The unique technique of the designs is hand blown in Murano, Italy.We could visualize the modern environment of the store belonging in an urban city filled with unique architecture and an appreciation for art. 





Lisa Corti has two parts to her store. The first part features different designers that she picks to showcase their collection. The other part of the store offers textiles in the form bedding, books, tablecloths and clothing. The textiles were very colorful, lightweight and presented in distinct patterns.  The one of a kind prints and colors are desirable, but because of the price points and quality, the location must be in an affluent area in America to survive. 


















Bellora is a boutique carrying bed linens, bath décor, baby bedding, sleepwear, and bedroom furniture. The atmosphere of this store gave off a very country and classic feel. The storefront caught our eye because it was bright, breezy, and refreshing. Since 1883 Bellora has been “ the master of linen” and it was evident when touching the product. The authentic and classic look that Bellora portrays would work well in America because many people aspire to have this image. Also this justifies the Milanese tradition with their second homes often on the beach or lake similar to America.

All in all, any company must understand their market and what their wants and needs are. This excursion incorporated all of the classes I have studied including management, marketing and fashion. In brand marketing we learned  how to create the proper image and objective for the specific customer. Each of these stores created a great strategy and brand recognition to their loyal customers and perspective customers by having a consistent brand image. Also, the price points are crucial to pick a location and have all been considered for their location. The owners must first research to see if there is first a need in America and if so, continue researching competitors and demographics. 












On June 28th

An inside look of White Sposa Magazine

White Sposa May 2011 Magazine
  Publications, especially magazines have a strong influence on trends and specifically on what and how much will be exposed to the public. White Sposa magazine is not the typical wedding magazine because they have a different objective and quality. Since May 10th, 1990, White Sposa has given the wedding market a run for its money. 

We arrived to the White Sposa office this morning and were welcomed from a familiar face, Simona Polli the Editor of White Sposa. She introduced us to Christina, the other editor and Elena Todros, the Fashion Editor of White Sposa. As we were getting a tour of the building, Simona explained that they are a special magazine because they sell advertisement space to live not like gossip magazines or the newspapers. The office is a large open area with different sections for graphic design, website, tech area with archives of every magazine and offices of other editors. We met Stefania who is in charge of casting models, researching for models that are more fashion rather than more bride, must go to each photo shoot and understand the overall theme of the photo shoot. Avellina is in charge of the marketing and advertising, clients and finding new clients, restaurants, vacation and in charge of the website.
            We than walked into a meeting room and were given a specialized Johnson & Wales University booklet made for us with information about the company, the rules and skills of each position and how a magazine is developed. Simona explained that working in a wedding magazine, it is hard to keep your readers because you only get married once and than they have no use of the magazine after. They rely on word of mouth and always finding new ways to get more readers. White Sposa used to come out with 4 magazines a year but this year only 3 issues will be made due to the economy.
            White Sposa prints 60,000 copies for Italy and distributed throughout Italian newsstands, prestigious international bookshops and by subscription. Only 8,000 copies are distributed abroad in 31 different countries but 50,000 copies are distributed through professional wedding exhibitions all over the world to get exposure.  On January 30th, 2009 the first White Sposa Japan magazine was printed and distributed to best bookshops, bridle dresses boutique, hotels and wedding centers. Also, in 2009 the first White Sposa Boutque was opened in Tokyo center and due to its success they opened a second boutique in Nagoya confirming Japanese enthusiasm for Made-In-Italy products. They also distribute to 300 different Russian shops because the magazine is involved in exhibitions and events in Mascow and Sankt Peterburg. White Sposa is on a great path for International recognition. 
            I asked Elena Todros how she choses the theme for each magazine, where she gets her inspiration from and gave us all a very thorough and descriptive answer. She first researches any art, watches old films, books, literature anything that may tell a story than collects pictures that may describe the theme.  Elena stated that it’s easy to take a pretty dress and make it ugly but if there’s a chemical balance between everything in the photoshoot like the props, models and location, the theme will come out perfectly.  She attends the photoshoots as well and allows the photographers to have freedom with their shoots as long it portrays the theme. She does not limit herself by hiring just Italian or famous photographers but will look for new designers that have a unique style.
White Sposa Issue 33
Photographer: Marco Sanges
British Issue
            What makes White Sposa so different from their other competitors such as Vogue Sposa, Sposabella and Chiére Sposa is the quality. Their covers are made from thicker paper and sometimes have rigid detail on the paper.  Their Exotic Issue was inspired by Africa, therefore their cover and paper resembled crocodile skin. Also, they never sell their first two pages of the magazine, even though they are the most expensive and desired, it makes them different from the rest. The first two pages are filled with an introduction of the theme that coincides with the cover or left blank. They believe less is more,  and want it to appear like a book while maintaining the same quality with less costs. 
            It was discouraging at the beginning to start a magazine in an already saturated market but White Sposa has been passionate for each magazine that they produce. Hopefully their goals are achieved when they become respectfully recognized in the United States and Brazil. They are quickly becoming a huge influence in the wedding market within such a short time by choosing to be different from the other wedding dress magazines. I never had the chance to take an advertising class where I would learn the logistics of magazines such as page layouts, selling and buying advertising space and graphic design but from this visit, I have a basic understanding.  Each person contributes their specific fashion, design or technological background into White Sposa allowing it to grow and succeed.  There were a few such as Elena who did not start in a wedding magazine but brought her designer contributions to the company.  Even though I may not have taken an advertising class, I now have seen the specific departments and areas required to create a magazine.
    As we were saying good-bye they treated us with a gift of their most current magazine (the one dedicated to photographers) and a White Sposa T-shirt. This visit was more than I expected and got so much insight of the logistics of a fashion magazine. 


On June 27th

Little Treasures are scattered throughout Milan, Can I find them all?


Via Modannia
  My walking shoes were tied on, my natural compass was set straight and my thinking cap was on; I was ready to take on the four locations we were sent to find. From my research we were sent to find a textile store, home linen and furniture store, high end costume jewelry boutique and a Murano glass store. We found each one pretty easily and had the chance to look at new areas of the city that I have never seen, specially the area where Giuggiu’ Di Caputi jewelry store is located in. It is in a very old  and quaint part of the city with cobblestone streets, surrouned by several Japanese restaurants and Piazza delle Carmine. 
Wedding by Via Madonnia


Walking towards the store we actually saw a wedding in the church. It was a gorgeous day to have a wedding and to have a stroll around the piazza. This area doesn’t have the chaos like other areas, the overall ideal area to live in Milan.


 As we were walking around we found a dress that Kate Middleton wore for one of her publicized dinners. Coincidently, I also found the show room for Enrico Coveri  by the Bellora Home linen store. This area is filled with treasures; it just takes some digging to find. 

















                                                                     On June 26th

Cercare I Nostri Sensi cultural assignment #2 (Pitti)

When we arrived at Pitti Market at Fortezza di Basso our first impression was overwhelming but with a rush of excitement. Immediately we observed buyers with suitcases, photographers taking pictures, and an overall well dressed group of people. While inside we noticed that there were more men than woman and they were dressed more sophisticated. To our surprise the overall age group of vendors and buyers was a lot younger than we expected. Another observation we came across was that it was a family oriented atmosphere. The vendors invited the buyers into the booths as if it was their house, which allowed a very relaxed and personal feel. With knowledge of the Italian culture, with time being valued not spent we noticed that buyers and vendors spent a lot of time building a relationship. Going back to Retail Lab and Seminar we were able to recognize the process they were going through. In addition we were able to identify purchases being placed, buyers handling the clothing before making the purchase, and buyers negotiating the purchase.
Throughout the show we came across many trends in clothing, accessories, watches, and shoes. The colors that we saw the most were navy, pinks, greens, red, and oranges in various hues. Going along with colors we also saw textures such as lace, crinkle, and distressed. Some of the patterns that we saw were plaid, floral, stripes, and checkers. Overall the style of the clothing was very tailored which represented the Italian culture of always returning to their roots.
Even though we all have a different bias on style, fit, and color. As a group one of our self-inflicted prejudices is bright color on men. In our culture men do not typically wear color. In Italian culture we see men wearing colors such as pink, purple, and green.  We have seen a lot of shorter hemlines on men. This style is not socially acceptable in the United States but is very common in Europe. Another one of our self-inflicted prejudices that made us uncomfortable is men carrying more feminine bags. Growing up in America we are not used to seeing men carry any another sort of bag besides a briefcase. Overall we have noticed that these trends will not make it to the United States, but if we were to become buyers or vendors we would not let our self inflicted prejudices get in the way.

On June 25th