White Sposa Milano Wedding Week

        Unfortunately, this morning we tried to find the location of the White Sposa event and couldn’t find it but the morning actually turned out to be a very fortunate one. We were right by Via Spiga, a very well known private street with restricted driving and full of designer’s top door stores. There is another street similar to this one in Milan but via Spiga is one of a kind. The visuals of each store were expressive and not bland like most American stores are. 

Via Spiga 

  

  They all expressed the collection through a story by using props, it was like a picture book. The stores are all in old buildings, the street is quaint and never over congested with shoppers or locals; it’s an ideal shopping environment. If I bought anything from Via Spiga I would not just like the item but the value will increase because I will purchase some of the experience and the atmosphere. 

             

Courtyard by the entrance 

 A wedding is an event that has been told through fairy tales, parents, family and sharing our ideal wedding with friends.  The brides dress holds precedence when planning a wedding. Its meaning and tradition has never been tainted or diluted.  White Sposa hosts Milano Wedding Week every year with extremely talented designers that transform the belief of a boring white dress into a romantic gown for their 2012 collections.

White Sposa was located in a historical building by Buenos Aires. The entrance had displays of each designers dress with lively mannequins. Just the entrance looked like a fairy tale and the rest of the building made each gown even more beautiful. As we walked up the marble staircase we passed the White Sposa magazine area and first saw an area for tuxedos. It was just like Pitti but quieter, serene and romantic. We passed a small area for tuxedos, that were crafted very lightly. I am glad that I saw a tuxedo company there because just like stores, they must max a merchandise mix that coincides with every department, the tuxedo must coincide with the dress.

            Within the first room by Roseanna Perrone , we were able to understand the feel of quality and inspirations. For example; I asked the designer that I noticed each gown was named after a city and if there was a particular reason why. She responded stating that each season she names her dresses after  a category and this years theme is beautiful cities. Each dress had a hint of green to show detail but the designer said it didn’t need to be green or worn in green for the bride.Villais is a Spanish designer who had a very traditional look  and explained that when the bride buyer purchases the dresses, she receives a picture of it to show to her clients for reference. Fio Couture by Fiorella Dell’aqua was a very lively room with very bright non-traditional colors, designs and patterns. There were flowers on the dresses and some short wedding dresses scattered throughout the room. We were able to have some models show us how the dress fit, falls and the movement of the dress. 

By far my favorite designer was Regina Stabilini by art director Angelo Mozzillo. He generously went into detail of inspiration, production and left us with great advice. His 2012 collection was called sculpture due to his focus on his interpretation of flower architecture. One of his dresses was call Garden Party and Full Moon. The back of the dress was full of flowers and layers like a garden and the front was simple with clean details like a full moon.  Some dresses were full with great floral designs as others were elegant with rhinestones, cut out backs etc. He left us with very useful advice that we should all work alone but together because it takes a lot of people to make one persons dreams and visions to come true.

Set up on a window sill 

            The last room was Andrea Couture, a family owned company. Simona, the Chief editor of White Sposa walked us in each room and explained to us some details about weddings and wedding companies in Italy. Just like Andrea Couture, the companies are not big like corporations in the United States therefore they tend to be managed by the family. It is at times difficult because they may not have the budget or resources to get the connections or marketing that they need. Their 2012 collection was shown in purple and of course white with many different silhouettes and modern design details.

             Lastly, we visited Antonio Maria Arbues a company that makes the traditional candy served at weddings called Confetti. They are almonds wrapped in sugar that are given to the guest for party favors.  The traditional started back in the Roman times when they had a special occasion, they would give almonds and honey to their guests.  They try to keep the tradition but stay up to do date with modern times. They have shown so by creating modern packaging, creating new flavors and being the first in Italy to print design or name on the Confetti.

White Sposa Table

             

            The dresses sparked a flame in me and made me feel like I was floating in the sky. I am years away from getting married but I now understand the difference between a mass merchandise dress to a very special and handcrafted dress.

On June 19th

Art vs Fashion: Giardini Pubblici di Milano

Art

  The Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli park was created in 1782-1786 when architect Giuseppe Piermarini; the designer of the acclaimed Teatro all Scala, created the typical French layout garden in Milan. The park is officially known as the Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli, honoring the late Italian journalist Indro Montanelli. It was enlarged in 1857 when Giuseppe Balzaretto added the garden of the Palazzo Dugnani to the Giardini Pubblici. Balzaretto also landscaped large sections of the park in the then more fashionable English style and created a natural looking landscape with rock formations and a lake now making it a 40 acre park ("Giardini Pubblici."). 

     The park has many attractions for both children and adults. The park hosts many weddings and ceremonies around the water or gazebos. Some children attractions include jungle sets, butterfly room, bumper cars, carousels and horse rides.  This picture is the top of the carousel with its flashing lights and geometric design.  Parks allow people to have a little bit of a getaway; an excursion out of their hectic lives. It is where people relax, enjoy time with loved ones and create beautiful memories.

VS.

FASHION

This is the first collection from the new creative director of Trussardi, Umit Benan. The Spring/Summer 2012 collection was presented June 19^th, 2011 in Milan as the audience saw luggage chests, duffel bags, pack packs as their signature pieces. The clothes are what brought the whole collection in unison. Loads of color, patterned fabrics, classic su

nglasses and extreme tailoring completed the collection (Dimitri, Barrio).  Parks are the closest area for Milanese people to enjoy gardens and greenery. Trussardi, is known for their luggage, purses, messenger bags and briefcases, ultimately representing travel and excursions. The color of this jacket matches the color from the carousel at the Giardino Publico; Indrio Montanelli. Also, the sharp tailoring of the jacket and the lapels resemble the geometric shapes on top of the carousel.

Work Cite

Dimitri, Barrio. "Trussardi 1911 | Milan Menswear Spring/Summer 2012." La Mode Dimitri. 19 June 2011. Web. 20 June 2011. <https://modedimitri.wordpress.com/2011/06/19/trussardi-1911-milan-menswear-springsummer-2012/>.

"Giardini Pubblici." A View on Cities. 2011. Web. 20 June 2011. <http://www.aviewoncities.com/milan/giardinipubblici.htm>.

Blog:

  We received a message that we must meet the professors at a Park this morning and than get our assignment. Once we arrived, the park was beautiful! It had entertainment for both adults and children.  As we were walking around taking pictures, we saw a group of Arabian horses all sattled up to be rode on.  We climbed mini hills to find beautiful ponds and streams with gigantic trees surrounding it and all different colored flowers. The park holds many statues and plaques in honor of angels or Italian noble men.  The park was the ideal area to bring a dog or to have a wedding in one of it's romantic gazebos.  Nature has a organic way of inspiring people, it must always be considered for its purpose, color, texture, growth and so much more. For 2013, a major trend for both men and women are feathers, leaves, branches and moss which are all found in nature.  I was able to understand and relate the trends origin. 

Later, I met up with my father  because he is here on business, to grab a dinner and walk around Corso Como. I pointed out 10 Corso Como and recommended that he must go into the store just to experience it. 

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On June 18th

Art vs Fashion: Salvatore Ferragamo & blog

“How can I explain my innate abilty to create? I don’t need to find models. When I want a new one I choose among those that come to me in the same way that, when I am at a table, I chose an apple from a bowl of fruit”

Salvatore Ferragamo

Art

This statue is located in the piazza right next to the Salvatore Museum on Via de’ Tornabuoni marking the beginning of the mot luxurious and chic shopping street in Florence, Italy.  It is encompassed by triangular geometric shapes, which appear to look like studs. They are all symmetrical in size and positioning.

   Piazza Santa Trinita where the museum and monument are located in is a very beautiful and affluent area with many respected designers surrounding the vicinity. In the middle of the square is an ancient Roman column, given as a gift from Pope Pius IV in 1560 for Cosimo I, the first Grand Duke of Florence. It is known as the column of justice due to the sculpture of “Justice” on the top. The piazza is named after the 14^th century church on the west side of the piazza best known for its collection of frescoes by famous artists such as Ghirlandaio, Aretino and Monaco. This piazza is filled with all different eras of art such as Romanesque and Gothic style (Piazza Santa Trinita). This statue is a representation of time and history. 

VS.

FASHION

The Court Shoe is a gold stiletto that was created by Salvatore Ferragamo in 1958-1959. The stiletto is gold with white triangular shape with a gold heal. The monument in the Piazza Santa Trinita resembles the same triangular and geometric lay out as the Court shoe. Salvatore Ferragamo had a natural ability to create patterns, design and overall shape of shoe by appreciating history, art and culture.  Especially being able to represent the interest and attractions of a certain time period and represent it through his designs.  The location of his store and museum is also located in the heart of Piazza Santa Trinita in the Palazzo Spini Feroni, bought by Salvatore Ferragamo in the 1930’s and in 1995 the lower level for the museum.  He was sensitive to art and his creativity grew stronger from it. He was able to take the inspiration of Etruscan abstractions and have it acceptable for the late 1950’s.  The lay out of the triangular shape is also symmetrically positioned throughout the stiletto as the wall encompassing the monument (Ricci, Stefania). 

Work Cite

"Piazza Santa Trinita." Florence On-line. 2010. Web. 18 June 2011. <http://www.florence-on-line.com/piazzas/piazza-santa-trinita.html>.

Ricci, Stefania, and Sergio Risaliti. 1st ed. Vol. 1. Florence: Skira, 2011. Print.

Pitti Uomo 2011 Firenze, Italia

Pitti Uomo 2011

Pitti Uomo is recognized around the world by all designers but now I can say I have successfully experienced an international trade show, as a student and not a vendor or buyer. Who has these opportunities? By far one of the most memorable experience here in this program yet.  I first thought it would be in the Pitti Palazzo but due to its rapid growth, it needed to be moved to Fortezza da Basso for more room.

    As we were walking we had to go through a long path from one area to another guiding us to the entrance. It felt like a secret passage way. Behind me, I overheard a compratore (buyer) talk to a man about her job and her difficulties. She was explaining how she needs to research trends and understand her target market very well. She must meet certain mark ups and even though every other store may have it but her market does not want it, she said it is not worth buying it to have it sit on display and lose money and most importantly her job.  Buyers have heavy responsibilities and must know how to build and keep relationships as well as being an excellent negotiator. 

 The entrance was bombarded with buyers entering with business on their mind. Vendors walked in with suitcases, photographers taking pictures of buyers and press everywhere. I was memorized for a little over a half hour just snapping pictures of every buyer I could see. If these are the people who put what we buy on the racks, the way they dress is important to me. I noticed that most of the buyers dressed casual with nice jeans, loafers and finished with a blazer while some wore suits.  Women and men would wear elegant and classy outfits but make it more casual with converse sneakers.  There were shorter hemlines for men shorts and colorful cuffed pants worn by both men and women. (Pictures are at the bottom)

Can't Stop Fashion sign

Buyers, Press & Vendors walking into Pitti

            We finally entered the area and saw the building with all the vendors and the area for press only.  The first building we entered was classy, sharp and sophisticated. There were mostly men buyers in suits and some with jeans walking around talking to old friends, vendors and buyers as if this was not only a day to work but to catch up with one another. I overheard a vendor and a buyer talking at the desk about the quality and fabric of the shirt. The vendor was explaining the fabric content, design detail and the colors it came in.  Desk were filled with swatch books, catalogue of the entire collections and purchase orders. Vendors dressed to represent their company by either wearing the product or wearing something with similar style.  Colors and patterns were the first to stand out for me but mainly shades of red, pink, navy, gray and blues such as navy blue, watermelon, mint green and everlast green.  Checkers and stripes ranging from all sizes covered button down shirts and blazers. Blazers, knits, v-neck shirts and crisp button downs will be seen in different colors for Spring/Summer 2012.  Each designer had a booth that was decorated to complement the collection and the companies’ image therefore it was an easy tool to pick up on the companies image.  

Shorter hemline for Men shorts

  Pitti was a very entertaining event especially going in and out of each building. I noticed each building was designed differently for the companies target market. For example, My Factory was a building with edgy and  some bohemian influences therefore the room appeared to look distressed like a factory would look after some years. Each building gave a different atmosphere and comfortable environment. Some had DJ’s playing music to complete the right environment for the vendors and their companies.  As we walked in to My Factory we approached the Civic Duty table, which presented very unique crinkled paper sneakers in various shades of color.  The latest and newest designs were shown in this building marketed to a market with limitless expression and free spirited.

Desigual Building

            Walking towards the end of the area we passed the Spanish street wear company, Desigual and of course had to stop. The building was decorated like a Tiki house, music coming from the ceiling and a woman making smoothies. There were so many designers that physically built a store with incredible entrances and window displays.

            The last building was by far one of the most rewarding only because we were able to pick up famous trend magazines, newspapers and advertisements that I would never have even seen in America. Most importantly, there was an area with binders dedicated to trends for upcoming seasons such as wovens, knits, patterns, fabric, shoes, jeans etc. I believe I have become more keen to future trends due to the Fashion Forecasting class I took. I was glued to them and tried to absorb every trend possible. I did notice some trends that I researched for class in the books which gave me a great feeling of accomplishment.  There were sample of fabric and embellishments throughout the books as well as detailed sketches of some upcoming trends.

Casual but classy

            As we left Pitti, I was carrying two huge bags of magazines, advertisements and a trend book. I looked online about Pitti Uomo to research how each day went. I read that some designers had models walking around outside and through the buildings for free and affective advertisement but most importantly to show the collections theme.  It was overall one of the best experiences to date.

   

On June 16th

         

Shopped till I dropped

Ponte Vecchio

The plan for the day was to do nothing but enjoy what Florence, the city of art, had to offer us.  We were lucky to have a hotel close to the main the river and always enjoyed walking along this historic river. We first stopped at a Murano glass store where in Florence, is a traditional type of jewelry. I have never seen or heard of this kind of jewelry but to my surprise all of the designs are carefully crafted blown glass.  We walked through ancient streets and heard all different languages, especially English which was shocking. We finally ended up on to Ponte Vecchio, one of the highlights of Florence. When we were approaching it, I thought I saw windows and little protrusion from the bridge and wondered what it was but I was right, they were stores!  The bridge is filled with colorful shades and windows and once you enter the street it is filled with jewelry stores selling gold, gems and leather goods. Each store was specialized in some type of jewelry but where we spent most of our time was a leather and gold store called Manelli. It provided all of us with wonderful authentic Florentine jewelry and sincere customer service. 

Jewelry shops along Ponte Vecchio

   We explored throughout the day going in and out of the narrow streets and sidewalks and I couldn’t help but notice that the city is small but filled with so much history and warm environment.  The architecture all resembled each building and coincided with the rest of the city.  We stopped by the colorful Duomo of Florence to see its natural beauty. The colors and details were unique since most Duomos in cities are neutral colors with little or no geometric details. 

Leather Market

Duomo

   Lastly, we hit the infamous leather market by the Boar or what the locals call “ Il Procellino”. The nose is rubbed for good luck and a coin is placed in its mouth to make a wish. I wish I knew that was the tradition because I would have done it instead of walking passed it. The leather market was full of bags, stationary items, hats and scarves. One can easily be lost with all the vendors in the little square. It is actually close to Via Pitti by the Pitti palace where the ideal men market was first presented.  Tomorrow we will be going to the 2011 Uomo Pitti Market, I wonder if they would have an area to see the markets growth through time from the beginning to now. This day ended with 9 gold and leather bracelets and beautiful memories.

On June 15th

Textile Haven. Welcome to Prato & Florence Italy.

Ask any native Italian where to get great textile and fabric and majority will say Prato and Florence.  The bus entered into a row of textile factories and all I could think about is what the factories produced, who did they sell to? Where do they get their inspirations from. I needed an answer to these questions. G-2 textile factory also known as Tessuti Iannuzzi. We met Walter, the sales representative and agent for the company. He sells once or twice a year to America, France, Canada and Japan for companies such as Theory, Phillip Lim, Annette Lepore, Burberry, Dolce  & Gabbana, Armani and Alexander Wang but of course a lot more.

            As we walked up the stairs we surrounded by over 200 different type of textiles, fabrics, colors and patterns. They were all neatly hung up on a rack and marked.  We had the chance to first observe the fabric before we asked questions. We looked around and saw and touched fabric for Fall/Winter 2012. The patterns and weight of the fabric were rich. If there was an overhead picture of the fabrics, they may appear to all the same but if given enough attention, the details were visible enough to notice the difference between each.  

            G-2 create their own fabric and designs their own patterns by reading books, trend and color books, researching social aesthetics and listening to designers needs and wants.  Since it is not possible to buy online, designers come to the factory or Walter goes to them to choose a fabric. This industry is global and some countries play a major roll in production and fibers. G-2 buys Italian fibers but also get wool from Australia because they produce some of the best fibers and buy cotton and silk from Japan.  As a textile factory they must stand out from the other competition, literally their next door neighbors. They market themselves by going to textile fairs, face-to-face conversations and expos.  Designers sometimes make fabric and patterns specifically for themselves and their collection. G-2 does honor their request but finds it difficult to match it perfectly to the designer’s original design. 

            We had the chance to see each step of making their fabric. All designs are drawn onto the computer and sent to the machinery to be done by computers with minimal manual labor. This shows how the company is keeping up with times and advances. Most of their fabric used to be synthetic but due to the recent demand for purer and more natural fibers, they sell more cotton fabrics. G-2 designs and produces over 200-250 different fabrics twice a year. It requires a lot of communication and teamwork between different areas of the company. Samantha, is in charge of all of the client relationships, send samples to customers with price, shipments, handles all customer documents and services. Marco is the owner and Fabio Iannuzzi is the fabric designer.  Each person holds important responsibilities that were expressed to the group.

After Walter and Samantha told us that we were the first group to tour their factory I can definitely improve my method of analyzing fabric since we were exposed to more than I though we could or allowed to see.  I will need to understand the value and content of fabric in any area of fashion and now enhanced my understanding of how fine fabric is made and handled.

Later that day we finally arrived to Florence! I instantly felt the difference between Milan and Florence. Milan atmosphere reminds me of work and rushing while Florence reminds me of ancient and rich history but bombarded with tourists.  Florence instantly won me over.  I have about four days to explore this city. I will first tackle two things one must do in Florence: buy gold and leather.

On June 14th

The Italian Animal Skin & Fur Guru

 

Today was the day we all have been waiting for, at least I have. The designer we have be hearing about and talking about for months is finally meeting the group that has helped him with his W/F 2011-2012 fashion show , shopping  and garment bags. We hoped onto the train to go to Lake Como, where his factory is. We stopped in this small area that looks like a small town, not Lake Como and waited for Maria and Vladimiro to meet up with us. I was very anxious and a little nervous to meet him. Once they met up with us we took a short walk to his factory. After going through a residential area, getting barked at by dogs we entered a small building that is not the typical factory Americans think of.

            We walked into a room and I saw all sorts of colors, fabric, leather, animal skin and we instantly started hearing about the new Spring/Summer 2012 collection.   We learned that his collection includes about 45-50 pieces and is full of color and fun combinations of different animal skins such as python, silk, leather and crocodile.  Samples of the animal skin were laid out on the table and he openly shared his sketches of some of his pieces. He is one of those designers that has a natural talent for creating designs. He was born into a factory that produced luxurious products, specialized in fur and worked there for 23 years. This was his destiny.   He never went to school for design or went to school for fabric making. It’s incredible to hear that his talent is so natural and we have the opportunity to understand his logistics and work with him. I had a vague understanding of who Vladimiro Gioia’s target market was but understood that he designs for women thirty and up because of the price but the style can be worn by any age.  

      His process of designing is unique but every designer has his or her way of creating a collection. Most designers research upcoming trends or have a certain person in mind while designing. Vladimiro does not. His mind and creativity guides him to produce.  His collection is luxurious but also street wear therefore it can be worn throughout the day and night.  He first sketches and than after he decides what materials to use, which he says is the most creative part.  As well as being the most difficult process because on sketch it looks beautiful but when making it, the material might hold back the original design. He mentioned luxury natural material is the hardest to use and manipulate because it has a soul.  After he makes his sample he shows his stylist and try to find a meeting point between his vision and hers. There are times that he would have to go back and adjust a few things and once everything is approved he needs to think about production. It is so easy to have companies send the sketch, measurements and fabric to factories but some designs are too difficult and advanced to have someone with mediocre experience produce the garment. Once the right material is chosen, the stylist approval, production and proper fit is finalized Janet, his sales representative makes appointments with buyers to sell his products.  He doesn’t look at what is in but has listens to what is offered. He will make sure to find a compromise between him and the stylist because Janet will mention what the buyers want and do not want. These steps are crucial in creating a successful collection because great time, attention and detail must be given to each step.  It was shown how much he values his process.

I asked him why he chose his logo and colors for his logo because it stood out for me. Vladimiro did not want to use his real name in the logo like everyone else but wanted to add some of preferences and personality within the logo by adding his favorite colors. For his Spring/Summer 2012 collection, his colors represented freedom and the animals.  It’s inspiring to hear his story and how he got to where he is today, his career and his aspirations.  A goal he has already conquered is the D&G store called Spiga 2 where only 21 companies are represented. His main goal is to be known for being a brand that produces luxury goods and in the future to create men coats hopefully in 2013/2014.

Vladimiro Gioia wants to be known as being different from the others, maintain his luxury status, brave and do what everyone thinks is wrong or impossible. He has created such an incredible brand and image thus far.  Meeting Vladimiro enlightend me in a different perspective, a designers perspective. It is crucial for me to understand this since I would like to work in product development. In that field I need to understand fit, price out the garments etc. This benefited me dramatically. I am anxious to see what else we do with Vladimiro!

On June 13th