My day of serenity

Everyone this morning at breakfast was talking about shopping all day but I have different plans, I am going to NABA to finish some work. Even though the classes are closed, I want to enjoy the sun, the air, the scent and the silence of a Saturday morning. I got to NABA and there were about 8 people casually walking in and out of the buildings. I found myself a cool area by the trees and started working. Four hours passed and I was so content with my peaceful environment. Sometimes being alone outside is the best rejuvenation.  

            I did find myself staring at two girls taking pictures with what appeared to be an old camera. I wonder how the resolution and the final picture may look. They were taking pictures of shadows made by nature, buildings and themselves. It was interesting to see how they interpreted their assignment. They may have inspired me to invest into a very nice camera so I can too appreciate photography.

I wish I could have gone and rode bikes around the park to with everyone else but I had to do what I had to do.

On June 25th 

"A real Italian looks inside the garment first to check for quality"

Later in the afternoon we were scheduled to have a class taught by Orietta about Fashion Forecasting in Milan. She teaches classes at NABA but her main job is a freelance trendsetter. Fashion forecasting has always been an interest of mine because it requires to use creativity and analytical traits.  She first explained one of her responsibilities by explaining what a trendsetter is and what they must do. They need to observe what is going on not just in fashion but politics, social areas, art, cuisine, architecture, history, what people are thinking of, reading books all in all, wherever people invest their money in. The second part of her job is traveling, a trend can’t be researched in one area rich facts and research must be gathered from different areas.

            She was a consultant for Camera della Moda and now a forecaster for Milan Italian Shoes Association including being a fashion journalist at a trade magazine. As any fashion forecaster, she wants to be more advanced than the others but still have a common ground. She focuses on researching where to find inspiration for example at the most important art fair in Basel, Switzerland where collectors and artists go for their inspirations as well. Also, technology and architecture are areas that always grow rapidly to consumers needs. Traveling and understanding the value of life in different countries and lifestyles will blossom a new outlook and perspective. Where ever the most innovation and advances are is where to look for trends. A trend is not a trend until it is seen in mass marketing like Internet, TV or magazines.

            I respect what she mentioned that she hates logos and will never be a fashion victim, fashion is more important than the logo. The most popular brand does not mean it provides the latest and most wanted trends.  The process always starts at customers point of view therefore people watching is crucial. We must follow the people that are not fashion but the people that express themselves in politics, art, cuisine etc.  New designers and up and coming artist bring a fresh look and perspective that is desired by trendsetters. Quality is key when researching for fabric and overall clothes. Orietta informed us all that, A real Italian always looks inside of the garment  first to see how it is put together and seamed, that is how you can see the quality of a garment.

            The second part of the class Orietta explained the Milan culture and the Milanese population. “Perbene” is used to describe a well dressed older woman from Milan. She described how to distinguish a person that lives in Milan because on the weekends, they are always gone either to their lake,beach or mountain house.  Not only do they always have two houses but their work week is scheduled around the weekend and anything that is must be done for the week, must be done by Thursday. Milan has a bit every market such as contemporary art, historical and vintage for example the needle by the Cardona station shows contemporary art as well as the Brera area. Milanese are not shows off, they would rather take all the value in.

Every city in Italy has a dialect and usually is inspired by the surrounding countries and in Milan to say a well dressed lady, simply say Shula and you instantly prove that you have adapted to the area.

After taking the Fashion Forecasting class this past Spring, I was required to do all of what Orietta does for her job. I walked around to simply take pictures of people, architecture, advertisements, plants, animals etc. Research was where I spent most of my time and the second part was making trend boards to present my trend. Within this class I learned about self reference criteria and how to eliminate it while I research and explain the newest trends. It is easy to always look at the most advertised designers to see what they are doing but not all are correct and to appreciate how to forecast, I needed to look at other areas such cuisine and packaging to find trends. I was taught how to look beyond the most obvious areas for information but to dive into some uncomfortable and new areas.

            “Heals must be thin because it makes the legs thinner and the thicker it is, the leg appears larger. Buying shoes is a very long process in Italy.” Orietta

On June 24th

Bob Krieger Exhibition in Palazzo Reale

Bob Krieger

 “Art is a bit like love, you want to swallow it and digest it so nobody can take it from you. I copy what I love.”

Earlier in June I went to Palazzo Reale for the first time to see the Impressionisim exhibition with my family.  Luckily, I had the chance to return to get an education in a different category; this time photography. Photography is beautiful to me. The lens is like a third eye; it shows a different view and vision.  Once I entered the Ricordi Tra Fotografia e Arte (Memories between Photography and Art) Bob Krieger exhibition I was impressed by his history and his 40 years contribution to fashion photography. The exhibition shows changes in his style and technique ranging from his widely published fashion photography to a collection of intimate nudes (Smith, Christine). He was born into a family that all appreciated art since most were painters, actors and opera writers, art was in his blood therefore he could relate and recognize it more. He was well rounded in different cultures knowing 5 different languages because of his environment and family. He believed his photos are art like most photographers do and would sign his pieces with Krgr. He stripped all of the vowels out of his name to indicate the coming of a form of art, not just photographs.

Bob Krieger's signiture

Franca Sazzoni; Editor in Chief of
Vogue Italia

On June 23rd

This exhibition was easily relatable to this program and this industry because he was and still is a respected fashion photographer. It all started in 1967 when he moved to Milan to start to work in Fashion. Gianni Versace and Giorgio Armani were two designers that led him to success and boosted his reputation. He has photographs in numerous magazines such as Harper Bazaar Italia, GQ, L’Uomo Vogue and many more. He took photos of the most famous Hollywood Stars, designers, politicians, businessmen and women. He took portraits of the most important fashion editors such as Franca Sazzoni of Vogue Italia and Italian designers such as Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. His works were outstanding. The transition between works from black and white pictures to high fashion photographs, portraits than some works of nudism show his ability to express his different artistic appreciations.  Looking at photos and art is one of the basic resources for any inspiration. 

Vladimiro Gioia's Website Launch Party & JWU Web Reality Contest Winner

Last night was one of the most important nights in Milan for all of the students. We were all given the chance to have an internship with Maria at Pink & Chic and Vladimiro Gioia for 6 months. I woke up with the biggest butterflies and nerves.  Once we arrived at Corso Como, we walked up to Lotus, a restaurant and lounge right next to the Moschino Maison and it all hit me. I was stamped on my hand and once it was on, I recognized the logo right away, it was Vladimiro Gioias logo! How different! Maria greeted us and showed us to the area we would be until 10. The restaurant had little booklets displaying Vladimiro Gioia’s Fall Winter 2011/2012 collection as well as a slide show on the TVs.  I could see how happy everyone was and how close we have all gotten with each other.

We first started the night by giving the leather journals we wrote in for Elise, Fulvio, Eleonora and Maria.  It felt like it was the last night because we were giving thank you gifts but I know we have a little more than a week with them. Elise, Fulvio and Maria really appreciated and understood how much we meant what we wrote in the journal. Professor St. Jean bought Maria Alex & Ani bracelets that she’s been wanting but is hard or  nearly impossible to get in Italy.  This was a very special moment for all of us because we appreciate their time, patience, enormous generosity and effort they have given us from the very beginning.  I will always remember every single one for their dedication.

            Once Vladimiro arrived, Maria started to talk about how thankful she is for our work and how much she will miss us andthan started to announce the winner.  I am sure the whole room didn’t breath until she said the name, I know I didn’t. After  months of suspense and work the winner is Annie Rusteika!!! I’m proud of her and hope everything that I wanted to learn or get out of the internship, she gets! We all cheered to Vladimiro’s website launch and to our program than mingled until 10 before going to Old Fashioned.

            Once we all arrived to Old Fashioned everyone started to have an incredible time dancing with Maria, Vladimiro and his brother! Some people started to go home but there were a bunch that stayed to just enjoy ourselves and our hard work. I would never think I would have the chance to go out with the people I worked for but we all felt comfortable and enjoyed the night!  Regardless of the setting, I had the chance to talk to talk to Maria and Vladimiro one on one which was something I wanted to do so we can get to know each other. It was one the most memorable night in Milan for sure. It was fun watching everyone the next morning and seeing pictures. I will miss this whole group and especially Maria, Eleonora, Vladimiro, Fulvio and Elise!

On June 23rd

Art vs Fashion: Galleria D’Arte Moderna Milano.

ART

"Ritratto del pittore Gaspare Landi"
By: Giuseppe Bossi
Oil painting

    “Ritratto del pittore Gaspare Landi” by  Giuseppe Bossi  has been presented in many museums since its creation. It was shown in the Sforza Castle, Palazzo Reale and now in the Galleria D’Arte Moderna Milano. Giuseppe Bossi, born 1777-1815, was a famous Lombardy painter and a Brera Academy for Fine Arts Alumnea.  His works are spread throughout the museum in different rooms especially his oil paintings.  This portrait of painter Gaspare Landi was created in 1813. It demonstrates what affluent men wore and how they wore their clothes during the time period  Scarves were a great layering piece to the mans outfit, a great way to finish the look. It was manipulated in many different ways but in the painting it is shown wrapped around the neck first and than knotted to be tucked in the shirt and jacket. The emphasis is the knot and the twisting not the length or the end of the scarf (Guiseppe Bossi).

VS. 

FASHION

Rag & Bone
Fall/Winter 2011 Scarf

Rag and Bone is notorious for their scarves and accessories. This Fall/Winter 2011 collection shows a “new” way to wear a scarf for men. The way the scarf is wrapped and knotted simulates the way Gaspare Landi wore his in 1813. The scarf is also surrounded by different layers of clothing such as button ups and a jacket.  The layering creates an opening, which is the neck, and the scarf closes the whole for a complete look.  Gaspare Landi and the model both are wearing shirts that have a collar to emphasize depth.  This manipulation of the Rag and Bone scarf makes the casual outfit into a classier look, a look that is seen from the Guiseppe Bossi portrait of Gaspare Landi.

Work Cite

"Giuseppe Bossi." The J. Paul Getty Museum. Web. 22 June 2011. <http://www.getty.edu/art/gettyguide/artMakerDetails?maker=3598>.

Blog

      We were assigned to visit the Contemporary Art Museum for an assignment and found it out it was close to the Giardini Publicci. The museum had three floors full of sculptures, paintings and other artifacts dating back to the 1700 hundreds. Doesn't sound so modern to anyone who lives in America but compared to this Ancient Roman country, it is. There were a lot of paintings of the Roman Era and many of famous artists, painters during the 1700- 1800 hundreds. Art during those times was a form of communication and to understand the times advancements since there was no form of mass media. Later that day I went to NABA and worked by myself. It was quite peaceful since no more than 8 people were walking around campus. I stayed outside and enjoyed the sun and the Milan air.

On June 22nd

1970's seen at the S/S 12 Enrico Coveri Collection & Brian and Barry opening

Marco Miccio

As we left, we rushed to the metro to catch the third fashion show. A couple stops on the metro and about a 10 minute walk we found ourselves outside to what appears to be a large storage unit. We stood outside and saw the most unique people walk in and for sure the most colorful. Elise mentioned that we would like this show because of the colors. I saw men wearing watermelon pink, green, paisley, white and plaid. I took a picture of a man who was wearing a suit and a bow tie and later found out by Fulvio that it was Italy’s most famous stylist, Marco Miccio.

Runway

            When we entered, the first room was full of refreshments with a colorful lounge area decorated with white couches and colorful patterns. We entered the area with the runway and Elise was right, there was color everywhere. Brittany and I stood in our area and started speaking to a man who ended up being the fashion reporter for a men’s health magazine in South Africa named Neil. He was a very generous and informative man who explained to us what Enrico Coveri is known for and justifiably so, the colors were his trademark. He has beautiful tailoring with sharp colors. He also told us about the other fashion shows that were going on throughout the week and what he saw and heard from reporters and other magazine writers. I told him I would mention him in the blog, thank you Neil for telling me about Dsquared²   and how amazing the show was.

Colorful Pattern

Once the music started I felt a rush of energy and happiness. Everything is better with good music, it sets the mood. The music was upbeat and energetic, just like the Men’s Womens Spring/Summer 2012 collection was. The show was elegant but not formal. Women wore tailored cuffed shorts, blazers with a white waist belt accessorized with a large circle necklace.  Long and romantic dresses swept the floor in violent, pinks, marine tones such as green and blues in sequence. The stilettos were traditional with two buckles with visible leather soles.  Enrico Coveri played with the suits both for women and men and mix-matched the color and geometric shapes. A 1970’s atmosphere veiled the room with the short-sleeved flared dresses yet structured jackets for men.  A very 1970’s floral pattern was seen in both men and women suits and dresses accessorized with resin and metal glasses.

1970's Floral Pattern

Beautiful pattern

Night suit with pink lapels
 colorful sequence gown

Lime green jacket was finished with camel colored buckle oxfords, or a teal jacket with a green scarf grazed the runway. The show switched stories towards the end where women and men would both walk out together wearing outfits that coincide with each other. The woman would wear a very colorful patterned sequence dress and the men would complaint them wearing a white suit with different color strips along side the pants, bowties, trouser waistbands and lapels such as yellow, green red and blue.

This show was the longest one compared to the other two and had a very fun environment.  The use of color and interpretation is key. I will need to understand how to look at a garment and be able to envision it in different colors and know which color would look better for a specific garment. Enrico Coveri understands the science and art to balance strong colors and to portray them in a very elegant manner. 

         Later that day we met Fulvio and Elise by San Bibila to go to the Brian and Barry store opening. The store has two levels and sells both men and women high end brands. It reminds me of a department store because they sell multiple brands as well as selling their own brand. The store is not congested and well designed. I actually want to go back to pick up a pair of Hogan flats I saw. 

Brian & Barry Store in Milan, Italy

On June 21st

A trip from East to West: S/S 2012 Gazzarrini

Boat inside of the Museum

      Day number two of fashion shows! I am getting a minor glimpse of what buyers and reporters do during fashion week specially the urgency running from show to show.  The first fashion show was located at the Museo Nazionale Della Scienza E Della Technologia on Via Olona.  We first walked in downstairs and were welcomed by a large ship placed inside the building surrounded by anchors and the Gazzarrini collection.  We walked back upstairs to wait outside and had another chance to people watch. There was more of an international representation at this show than the Iceberg show. They presented themselves in more of a professional manner with suits and cocktail dresses.

           

Downstairs where the models got ready for the show

Once I walked into the building we were treated with some pastries and drinks around the ship and planes. It’s incredible where fashion shows take place and how the location is key to the meaning of the collection. I ended up speaking to a Fashion Stylist named Michelle Kling who is a student at Principessa Hannover.  She actually said she recognized me from the Iceberg show because of the white lace dress I was wearing. That’s not something you hear everyday! She mentioned that in Italy it is hard to become a stylist because the Italians believe they know what they are doing and pick the same common brands. This opened my eyes a little bit because it’s true. Just because the name is well known doesn’t necessarily mean it is the best fashion. She explained in more detail what to expect from Gazzarrini since I have never seen anything from them. A lot of simple designs with innovative fit is what Michelle promised I’d see.

          



















The male ushers wore suits with a piece of fabric wrapped from their left shoulder blade down to the right side of the stomach and the women wore vests with no center back piece. These were two outfits that stood out for me because it gave me an introduction of what to expect from Gazzarrini; unconventional tailoring.

            We were standing up but three of us had the chance to sit right next to the entrance in the second row. I am surprised that no one was sitting there since they are reserved for important people in the industry. I soaked it all in and sat right next to the stairs and was able to see each model walk up from downstairs. In comparison from Iceberg, this catwalk was brighter with more neutral tones and wrapped around the room.

            The music came on and the lights dimmed and thanks to yesterday, I knew the show was about to start.  The models had sharp features and clean cut faces as they presented the newest trends. Giuseppe Ceccarelli, the stylist for the catwalk, incorporated the overall inspiration of the collection into the outfits and Marco Bastianon created a funky soundtrack for every step. The Spring/ Summer 2012 collection reflects the latest trends, the points of contrast and the blend between the West and the East. It combined everyday experiences with contemporary refined fabric. The materials and shapes symbolized the landscape of different worlds and the clothes are characterized by neutral tones such as beige, bamboo, brown with soft shades of light green, Ceylon yellow and brick red.  The high waisted pants were loosely fit with button closures and fell right before the ankle bone to again, emphasize the shoes and socks. All of this emphasis on the ankle and shoe makes me believe that shoes and socks will become the focal piece for both men and women.

            Michelle was right, the items were basic but the fit, fabric and tailoring were innovative. There was a brown leather windbreaker, lime green socks that showed from their shoes, elastic waist on a tailored coat, blazers and distressed oxfords. The colors were neutral therefore it was full of grays, blues, beiges, camel and with a hint of lime green. One of the models wore a shirt with a tassel hanging from the bottom; few wore scarves that were tucked into the shirt instead of exposing it. The textures of the fabric, the extra long pockets and the combination of fabric also made this collection an expression of the East & West history and modern architecture.

            The location of the fashion show made more sense at the end of the show. It held all forms of architecture and the planes represented travel and the influence of the world. One model actually walked with a leather journal. Maybe it represented travel and memories. The show was a very simple but expressed an enormous story about the importance of history that it all can be seen in the texture of the fabric and the fit. 

On June 21st