Instituto Secoli

  Milan is full of art, design and fashion schools and they all have a unique career objective or specialty. The Instituto Secoli crated in 1934 was made mainly for people with careers and wanted to enhance their trait. The president of the University, Stefano Secoli, generously gave us a lesson on prêt-à-porter and the difference between Haute Couture. The university is particular because it is located in a very powerful fashion city, something that Stefano Secoli prides himself in.

            Firstly, an Atelier creates Haute Couture and the industry creates prêt-à-porter but the one area they both have in common is fashion shows. Haute Couture is extremely different because it is made for one specific person, that is what makes it so desirable and unique while prêt-à-porter creates more than one piece.  Untill 1968,  fashion was only done by an Atelier until the relationship between the stylist and the designer became extremely important. Armani and Facci believed the middle class also wanted fashion therefore prêt-à-porter blossomed.  Unlike Haute Couture where if one sees it, it can easily be copied or replicated prêt-à-porter items have a patent for each garment in each size and is never seen until the fashion show.

            There is a longer and more detailed process for prêt-à-porter designers where the stylist has massive power on the overall future of the collection.  If I were a designer for prêt-à-porter I first:

1.      Must come up with an idea or inspiration
2.      Design a collection
3.      Work with Product development
4.      Patterns must be chosen with stylist to say if they like it or not
5.      Samples must be created for the fashion show and patents must be made for each garment
6.      Orders from buyers
7.      Production (before production it is necessary to create more patents for each size)

Stefano Secoli mentioned now, in prêt-à-porter there are no tailors because it always made out of the country except for Giorgio Armani where their production house is in Milan while Haute Couture have tailors that make each garment. This would be simple but everything is new like fabric and patterns therefore each one needs a patent. Tradition used to be that the designer or tailor was the producer but now, since people are retiring and new technicians enter, the quality might change because they do not have the same talent as the originals have.

  Stefano Secoli focuses on industry before academics because it is more practical for his type of student who already works in the industry. He justified this by showing us around the university. 

A Touch of Nature
Class of 2011

   We were able to watch the fashion show each student participates in as their final project to graduate than later actually saw some pieces from the collection! They were all so beautifully crafted and I’m sure each piece is precious to them. Also, in Apparel Analysis we had to make a complete outfit and learn how to make a pattern piece. When we went around the school, we saw students learning how to make pattern pieces for each size. I never had the chance to do one for each size but I recognized the material and process.  visit gave me a more detailed understanding of prêt-à-porter from a Milanese perspective and can now appreciate fashion shows much more knowing all of the other details needed to complete a collection.

On June 29th

Cercare I Nostri Sensi cultural assignment #3 Unique stores around Milano

    Our cultural group was sent on an adventure to find 4 selected stores that were unique to their own kind. The purpose of our visit was to seek out why we were sent to these stores and the kind of impact it will have on the industry that we are entering.

    The stores all showed different form of craftsmanship, which allowed us to get a better understanding and appreciation for Italian goods. From visiting the stores we recognized that fashion just isn’t in the form of clothing but also found in hardware, home goods, and other necessities.

     In the industry today fast fashion and poor quality over powers unique and good quality items. In each store we were exposed to high quality merchandise and elements of handmade products. Uncovering the difference poor quality and good quality will benefit us in any field of the industry we choose to follow.

Giuggiu Di Caputti is a small quaint jewelry store that holds many beautiful handmade pieces. She makes high quality custom jewelry with unconventional materials and designs.  Accessories and jewelry are two categories that would sell well in any culture and market. We envision this store being in the Soho area of New York City because the pieces are creative and artsy. 

Venini was filled with colorful vases, lights, chandeliers and figurines all made of Murano glass. The unique technique of the designs is hand blown in Murano, Italy.We could visualize the modern environment of the store belonging in an urban city filled with unique architecture and an appreciation for art. 

Lisa Corti has two parts to her store. The first part features different designers that she picks to showcase their collection. The other part of the store offers textiles in the form bedding, books, tablecloths and clothing. The textiles were very colorful, lightweight and presented in distinct patterns.  The one of a kind prints and colors are desirable, but because of the price points and quality, the location must be in an affluent area in America to survive. 

Bellora is a boutique carrying bed linens, bath décor, baby bedding, sleepwear, and bedroom furniture. The atmosphere of this store gave off a very country and classic feel. The storefront caught our eye because it was bright, breezy, and refreshing. Since 1883 Bellora has been “ the master of linen” and it was evident when touching the product. The authentic and classic look that Bellora portrays would work well in America because many people aspire to have this image. Also this justifies the Milanese tradition with their second homes often on the beach or lake similar to America.

All in all, any company must understand their market and what their wants and needs are. This excursion incorporated all of the classes I have studied including management, marketing and fashion. In brand marketing we learned  how to create the proper image and objective for the specific customer. Each of these stores created a great strategy and brand recognition to their loyal customers and perspective customers by having a consistent brand image. Also, the price points are crucial to pick a location and have all been considered for their location. The owners must first research to see if there is first a need in America and if so, continue researching competitors and demographics. 

On June 28th

An inside look of White Sposa Magazine

White Sposa May 2011 Magazine

  Publications, especially magazines have a strong influence on trends and specifically on what and how much will be exposed to the public. White Sposa magazine is not the typical wedding magazine because they have a different objective and quality. Since May 10th, 1990, White Sposa has given the wedding market a run for its money. 

We arrived to the White Sposa office this morning and were welcomed from a familiar face, Simona Polli the Editor of White Sposa. She introduced us to Christina, the other editor and Elena Todros, the Fashion Editor of White Sposa. As we were getting a tour of the building, Simona explained that they are a special magazine because they sell advertisement space to live not like gossip magazines or the newspapers. The office is a large open area with different sections for graphic design, website, tech area with archives of every magazine and offices of other editors. We met Stefania who is in charge of casting models, researching for models that are more fashion rather than more bride, must go to each photo shoot and understand the overall theme of the photo shoot. Avellina is in charge of the marketing and advertising, clients and finding new clients, restaurants, vacation and in charge of the website.

            We than walked into a meeting room and were given a specialized Johnson & Wales University booklet made for us with information about the company, the rules and skills of each position and how a magazine is developed. Simona explained that working in a wedding magazine, it is hard to keep your readers because you only get married once and than they have no use of the magazine after. They rely on word of mouth and always finding new ways to get more readers. White Sposa used to come out with 4 magazines a year but this year only 3 issues will be made due to the economy.

            White Sposa prints 60,000 copies for Italy and distributed throughout Italian newsstands, prestigious international bookshops and by subscription. Only 8,000 copies are distributed abroad in 31 different countries but 50,000 copies are distributed through professional wedding exhibitions all over the world to get exposure.  On January 30^th, 2009 the first White Sposa Japan magazine was printed and distributed to best bookshops, bridle dresses boutique, hotels and wedding centers. Also, in 2009 the first White Sposa Boutque was opened in Tokyo center and due to its success they opened a second boutique in Nagoya confirming Japanese enthusiasm for Made-In-Italy products. They also distribute to 300 different Russian shops because the magazine is involved in exhibitions and events in Mascow and Sankt Peterburg. White Sposa is on a great path for International recognition. 

            I asked Elena Todros how she choses the theme for each magazine, where she gets her inspiration from and gave us all a very thorough and descriptive answer. She first researches any art, watches old films, books, literature anything that may tell a story than collects pictures that may describe the theme.  Elena stated that it’s easy to take a pretty dress and make it ugly but if there’s a chemical balance between everything in the photoshoot like the props, models and location, the theme will come out perfectly.  She attends the photoshoots as well and allows the photographers to have freedom with their shoots as long it portrays the theme. She does not limit herself by hiring just Italian or famous photographers but will look for new designers that have a unique style.

White Sposa Issue 33
Photographer: Marco Sanges
British Issue

            What makes White Sposa so different from their other competitors such as Vogue Sposa, Sposabella and Chiére Sposa is the quality. Their covers are made from thicker paper and sometimes have rigid detail on the paper.  Their Exotic Issue was inspired by Africa, therefore their cover and paper resembled crocodile skin. Also, they never sell their first two pages of the magazine, even though they are the most expensive and desired, it makes them different from the rest. The first two pages are filled with an introduction of the theme that coincides with the cover or left blank. They believe less is more,  and want it to appear like a book while maintaining the same quality with less costs. 

            It was discouraging at the beginning to start a magazine in an already saturated market but White Sposa has been passionate for each magazine that they produce. Hopefully their goals are achieved when they become respectfully recognized in the United States and Brazil. They are quickly becoming a huge influence in the wedding market within such a short time by choosing to be different from the other wedding dress magazines. I never had the chance to take an advertising class where I would learn the logistics of magazines such as page layouts, selling and buying advertising space and graphic design but from this visit, I have a basic understanding.  Each person contributes their specific fashion, design or technological background into White Sposa allowing it to grow and succeed.  There were a few such as Elena who did not start in a wedding magazine but brought her designer contributions to the company.  Even though I may not have taken an advertising class, I now have seen the specific departments and areas required to create a magazine.

    As we were saying good-bye they treated us with a gift of their most current magazine (the one dedicated to photographers) and a White Sposa T-shirt. This visit was more than I expected and got so much insight of the logistics of a fashion magazine. 

On June 27th

Little Treasures are scattered throughout Milan, Can I find them all?

Via Modannia

  My walking shoes were tied on, my natural compass was set straight and my thinking cap was on; I was ready to take on the four locations we were sent to find. From my research we were sent to find a textile store, home linen and furniture store, high end costume jewelry boutique and a Murano glass store. We found each one pretty easily and had the chance to look at new areas of the city that I have never seen, specially the area where Giuggiu’ Di Caputi jewelry store is located in. It is in a very old  and quaint part of the city with cobblestone streets, surrouned by several Japanese restaurants and Piazza delle Carmine. 

Wedding by Via Madonnia

Walking towards the store we actually saw a wedding in the church. It was a gorgeous day to have a wedding and to have a stroll around the piazza. This area doesn’t have the chaos like other areas, the overall ideal area to live in Milan.

 As we were walking around we found a dress that Kate Middleton wore for one of her publicized dinners. Coincidently, I also found the show room for Enrico Coveri  by the Bellora Home linen store. This area is filled with treasures; it just takes some digging to find. 

                                                                     On June 26th

Cercare I Nostri Sensi cultural assignment #2 (Pitti)

When we arrived at Pitti Market at Fortezza di Basso our first impression was overwhelming but with a rush of excitement. Immediately we observed buyers with suitcases, photographers taking pictures, and an overall well dressed group of people. While inside we noticed that there were more men than woman and they were dressed more sophisticated. To our surprise the overall age group of vendors and buyers was a lot younger than we expected. Another observation we came across was that it was a family oriented atmosphere. The vendors invited the buyers into the booths as if it was their house, which allowed a very relaxed and personal feel. With knowledge of the Italian culture, with time being valued not spent we noticed that buyers and vendors spent a lot of time building a relationship. Going back to Retail Lab and Seminar we were able to recognize the process they were going through. In addition we were able to identify purchases being placed, buyers handling the clothing before making the purchase, and buyers negotiating the purchase.

Throughout the show we came across many trends in clothing, accessories, watches, and shoes. The colors that we saw the most were navy, pinks, greens, red, and oranges in various hues. Going along with colors we also saw textures such as lace, crinkle, and distressed. Some of the patterns that we saw were plaid, floral, stripes, and checkers. Overall the style of the clothing was very tailored which represented the Italian culture of always returning to their roots.

Even though we all have a different bias on style, fit, and color. As a group one of our self-inflicted prejudices is bright color on men. In our culture men do not typically wear color. In Italian culture we see men wearing colors such as pink, purple, and green.  We have seen a lot of shorter hemlines on men. This style is not socially acceptable in the United States but is very common in Europe. Another one of our self-inflicted prejudices that made us uncomfortable is men carrying more feminine bags. Growing up in America we are not used to seeing men carry any another sort of bag besides a briefcase. Overall we have noticed that these trends will not make it to the United States, but if we were to become buyers or vendors we would not let our self inflicted prejudices get in the way.

On June 25th

My day of serenity

Everyone this morning at breakfast was talking about shopping all day but I have different plans, I am going to NABA to finish some work. Even though the classes are closed, I want to enjoy the sun, the air, the scent and the silence of a Saturday morning. I got to NABA and there were about 8 people casually walking in and out of the buildings. I found myself a cool area by the trees and started working. Four hours passed and I was so content with my peaceful environment. Sometimes being alone outside is the best rejuvenation.  

            I did find myself staring at two girls taking pictures with what appeared to be an old camera. I wonder how the resolution and the final picture may look. They were taking pictures of shadows made by nature, buildings and themselves. It was interesting to see how they interpreted their assignment. They may have inspired me to invest into a very nice camera so I can too appreciate photography.

I wish I could have gone and rode bikes around the park to with everyone else but I had to do what I had to do.

On June 25th 

"A real Italian looks inside the garment first to check for quality"

Later in the afternoon we were scheduled to have a class taught by Orietta about Fashion Forecasting in Milan. She teaches classes at NABA but her main job is a freelance trendsetter. Fashion forecasting has always been an interest of mine because it requires to use creativity and analytical traits.  She first explained one of her responsibilities by explaining what a trendsetter is and what they must do. They need to observe what is going on not just in fashion but politics, social areas, art, cuisine, architecture, history, what people are thinking of, reading books all in all, wherever people invest their money in. The second part of her job is traveling, a trend can’t be researched in one area rich facts and research must be gathered from different areas.

            She was a consultant for Camera della Moda and now a forecaster for Milan Italian Shoes Association including being a fashion journalist at a trade magazine. As any fashion forecaster, she wants to be more advanced than the others but still have a common ground. She focuses on researching where to find inspiration for example at the most important art fair in Basel, Switzerland where collectors and artists go for their inspirations as well. Also, technology and architecture are areas that always grow rapidly to consumers needs. Traveling and understanding the value of life in different countries and lifestyles will blossom a new outlook and perspective. Where ever the most innovation and advances are is where to look for trends. A trend is not a trend until it is seen in mass marketing like Internet, TV or magazines.

            I respect what she mentioned that she hates logos and will never be a fashion victim, fashion is more important than the logo. The most popular brand does not mean it provides the latest and most wanted trends.  The process always starts at customers point of view therefore people watching is crucial. We must follow the people that are not fashion but the people that express themselves in politics, art, cuisine etc.  New designers and up and coming artist bring a fresh look and perspective that is desired by trendsetters. Quality is key when researching for fabric and overall clothes. Orietta informed us all that, A real Italian always looks inside of the garment  first to see how it is put together and seamed, that is how you can see the quality of a garment.

            The second part of the class Orietta explained the Milan culture and the Milanese population. “Perbene” is used to describe a well dressed older woman from Milan. She described how to distinguish a person that lives in Milan because on the weekends, they are always gone either to their lake,beach or mountain house.  Not only do they always have two houses but their work week is scheduled around the weekend and anything that is must be done for the week, must be done by Thursday. Milan has a bit every market such as contemporary art, historical and vintage for example the needle by the Cardona station shows contemporary art as well as the Brera area. Milanese are not shows off, they would rather take all the value in.

Every city in Italy has a dialect and usually is inspired by the surrounding countries and in Milan to say a well dressed lady, simply say Shula and you instantly prove that you have adapted to the area.

After taking the Fashion Forecasting class this past Spring, I was required to do all of what Orietta does for her job. I walked around to simply take pictures of people, architecture, advertisements, plants, animals etc. Research was where I spent most of my time and the second part was making trend boards to present my trend. Within this class I learned about self reference criteria and how to eliminate it while I research and explain the newest trends. It is easy to always look at the most advertised designers to see what they are doing but not all are correct and to appreciate how to forecast, I needed to look at other areas such cuisine and packaging to find trends. I was taught how to look beyond the most obvious areas for information but to dive into some uncomfortable and new areas.

            “Heals must be thin because it makes the legs thinner and the thicker it is, the leg appears larger. Buying shoes is a very long process in Italy.” Orietta

On June 24th

Bob Krieger Exhibition in Palazzo Reale

Bob Krieger

 “Art is a bit like love, you want to swallow it and digest it so nobody can take it from you. I copy what I love.”

Earlier in June I went to Palazzo Reale for the first time to see the Impressionisim exhibition with my family.  Luckily, I had the chance to return to get an education in a different category; this time photography. Photography is beautiful to me. The lens is like a third eye; it shows a different view and vision.  Once I entered the Ricordi Tra Fotografia e Arte (Memories between Photography and Art) Bob Krieger exhibition I was impressed by his history and his 40 years contribution to fashion photography. The exhibition shows changes in his style and technique ranging from his widely published fashion photography to a collection of intimate nudes (Smith, Christine). He was born into a family that all appreciated art since most were painters, actors and opera writers, art was in his blood therefore he could relate and recognize it more. He was well rounded in different cultures knowing 5 different languages because of his environment and family. He believed his photos are art like most photographers do and would sign his pieces with Krgr. He stripped all of the vowels out of his name to indicate the coming of a form of art, not just photographs.

Bob Krieger's signiture

Franca Sazzoni; Editor in Chief of
Vogue Italia

On June 23rd

This exhibition was easily relatable to this program and this industry because he was and still is a respected fashion photographer. It all started in 1967 when he moved to Milan to start to work in Fashion. Gianni Versace and Giorgio Armani were two designers that led him to success and boosted his reputation. He has photographs in numerous magazines such as Harper Bazaar Italia, GQ, L’Uomo Vogue and many more. He took photos of the most famous Hollywood Stars, designers, politicians, businessmen and women. He took portraits of the most important fashion editors such as Franca Sazzoni of Vogue Italia and Italian designers such as Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. His works were outstanding. The transition between works from black and white pictures to high fashion photographs, portraits than some works of nudism show his ability to express his different artistic appreciations.  Looking at photos and art is one of the basic resources for any inspiration. 

Vladimiro Gioia's Website Launch Party & JWU Web Reality Contest Winner

Last night was one of the most important nights in Milan for all of the students. We were all given the chance to have an internship with Maria at Pink & Chic and Vladimiro Gioia for 6 months. I woke up with the biggest butterflies and nerves.  Once we arrived at Corso Como, we walked up to Lotus, a restaurant and lounge right next to the Moschino Maison and it all hit me. I was stamped on my hand and once it was on, I recognized the logo right away, it was Vladimiro Gioias logo! How different! Maria greeted us and showed us to the area we would be until 10. The restaurant had little booklets displaying Vladimiro Gioia’s Fall Winter 2011/2012 collection as well as a slide show on the TVs.  I could see how happy everyone was and how close we have all gotten with each other.

We first started the night by giving the leather journals we wrote in for Elise, Fulvio, Eleonora and Maria.  It felt like it was the last night because we were giving thank you gifts but I know we have a little more than a week with them. Elise, Fulvio and Maria really appreciated and understood how much we meant what we wrote in the journal. Professor St. Jean bought Maria Alex & Ani bracelets that she’s been wanting but is hard or  nearly impossible to get in Italy.  This was a very special moment for all of us because we appreciate their time, patience, enormous generosity and effort they have given us from the very beginning.  I will always remember every single one for their dedication.

            Once Vladimiro arrived, Maria started to talk about how thankful she is for our work and how much she will miss us andthan started to announce the winner.  I am sure the whole room didn’t breath until she said the name, I know I didn’t. After  months of suspense and work the winner is Annie Rusteika!!! I’m proud of her and hope everything that I wanted to learn or get out of the internship, she gets! We all cheered to Vladimiro’s website launch and to our program than mingled until 10 before going to Old Fashioned.

            Once we all arrived to Old Fashioned everyone started to have an incredible time dancing with Maria, Vladimiro and his brother! Some people started to go home but there were a bunch that stayed to just enjoy ourselves and our hard work. I would never think I would have the chance to go out with the people I worked for but we all felt comfortable and enjoyed the night!  Regardless of the setting, I had the chance to talk to talk to Maria and Vladimiro one on one which was something I wanted to do so we can get to know each other. It was one the most memorable night in Milan for sure. It was fun watching everyone the next morning and seeing pictures. I will miss this whole group and especially Maria, Eleonora, Vladimiro, Fulvio and Elise!

On June 23rd

Art vs Fashion: Galleria D’Arte Moderna Milano.

ART

"Ritratto del pittore Gaspare Landi"
By: Giuseppe Bossi
Oil painting

    “Ritratto del pittore Gaspare Landi” by  Giuseppe Bossi  has been presented in many museums since its creation. It was shown in the Sforza Castle, Palazzo Reale and now in the Galleria D’Arte Moderna Milano. Giuseppe Bossi, born 1777-1815, was a famous Lombardy painter and a Brera Academy for Fine Arts Alumnea.  His works are spread throughout the museum in different rooms especially his oil paintings.  This portrait of painter Gaspare Landi was created in 1813. It demonstrates what affluent men wore and how they wore their clothes during the time period  Scarves were a great layering piece to the mans outfit, a great way to finish the look. It was manipulated in many different ways but in the painting it is shown wrapped around the neck first and than knotted to be tucked in the shirt and jacket. The emphasis is the knot and the twisting not the length or the end of the scarf (Guiseppe Bossi).

VS. 

FASHION

Rag & Bone
Fall/Winter 2011 Scarf

Rag and Bone is notorious for their scarves and accessories. This Fall/Winter 2011 collection shows a “new” way to wear a scarf for men. The way the scarf is wrapped and knotted simulates the way Gaspare Landi wore his in 1813. The scarf is also surrounded by different layers of clothing such as button ups and a jacket.  The layering creates an opening, which is the neck, and the scarf closes the whole for a complete look.  Gaspare Landi and the model both are wearing shirts that have a collar to emphasize depth.  This manipulation of the Rag and Bone scarf makes the casual outfit into a classier look, a look that is seen from the Guiseppe Bossi portrait of Gaspare Landi.

Work Cite

"Giuseppe Bossi." The J. Paul Getty Museum. Web. 22 June 2011. <http://www.getty.edu/art/gettyguide/artMakerDetails?maker=3598>.

Blog

      We were assigned to visit the Contemporary Art Museum for an assignment and found it out it was close to the Giardini Publicci. The museum had three floors full of sculptures, paintings and other artifacts dating back to the 1700 hundreds. Doesn't sound so modern to anyone who lives in America but compared to this Ancient Roman country, it is. There were a lot of paintings of the Roman Era and many of famous artists, painters during the 1700- 1800 hundreds. Art during those times was a form of communication and to understand the times advancements since there was no form of mass media. Later that day I went to NABA and worked by myself. It was quite peaceful since no more than 8 people were walking around campus. I stayed outside and enjoyed the sun and the Milan air.

On June 22nd

1970's seen at the S/S 12 Enrico Coveri Collection & Brian and Barry opening

Marco Miccio

As we left, we rushed to the metro to catch the third fashion show. A couple stops on the metro and about a 10 minute walk we found ourselves outside to what appears to be a large storage unit. We stood outside and saw the most unique people walk in and for sure the most colorful. Elise mentioned that we would like this show because of the colors. I saw men wearing watermelon pink, green, paisley, white and plaid. I took a picture of a man who was wearing a suit and a bow tie and later found out by Fulvio that it was Italy’s most famous stylist, Marco Miccio.

Runway

            When we entered, the first room was full of refreshments with a colorful lounge area decorated with white couches and colorful patterns. We entered the area with the runway and Elise was right, there was color everywhere. Brittany and I stood in our area and started speaking to a man who ended up being the fashion reporter for a men’s health magazine in South Africa named Neil. He was a very generous and informative man who explained to us what Enrico Coveri is known for and justifiably so, the colors were his trademark. He has beautiful tailoring with sharp colors. He also told us about the other fashion shows that were going on throughout the week and what he saw and heard from reporters and other magazine writers. I told him I would mention him in the blog, thank you Neil for telling me about Dsquared²   and how amazing the show was.

Colorful Pattern

Once the music started I felt a rush of energy and happiness. Everything is better with good music, it sets the mood. The music was upbeat and energetic, just like the Men’s Womens Spring/Summer 2012 collection was. The show was elegant but not formal. Women wore tailored cuffed shorts, blazers with a white waist belt accessorized with a large circle necklace.  Long and romantic dresses swept the floor in violent, pinks, marine tones such as green and blues in sequence. The stilettos were traditional with two buckles with visible leather soles.  Enrico Coveri played with the suits both for women and men and mix-matched the color and geometric shapes. A 1970’s atmosphere veiled the room with the short-sleeved flared dresses yet structured jackets for men.  A very 1970’s floral pattern was seen in both men and women suits and dresses accessorized with resin and metal glasses.

1970's Floral Pattern

Beautiful pattern

Night suit with pink lapels
 colorful sequence gown

Lime green jacket was finished with camel colored buckle oxfords, or a teal jacket with a green scarf grazed the runway. The show switched stories towards the end where women and men would both walk out together wearing outfits that coincide with each other. The woman would wear a very colorful patterned sequence dress and the men would complaint them wearing a white suit with different color strips along side the pants, bowties, trouser waistbands and lapels such as yellow, green red and blue.

This show was the longest one compared to the other two and had a very fun environment.  The use of color and interpretation is key. I will need to understand how to look at a garment and be able to envision it in different colors and know which color would look better for a specific garment. Enrico Coveri understands the science and art to balance strong colors and to portray them in a very elegant manner. 

         Later that day we met Fulvio and Elise by San Bibila to go to the Brian and Barry store opening. The store has two levels and sells both men and women high end brands. It reminds me of a department store because they sell multiple brands as well as selling their own brand. The store is not congested and well designed. I actually want to go back to pick up a pair of Hogan flats I saw. 

Brian & Barry Store in Milan, Italy

On June 21st

A trip from East to West: S/S 2012 Gazzarrini

Boat inside of the Museum

      Day number two of fashion shows! I am getting a minor glimpse of what buyers and reporters do during fashion week specially the urgency running from show to show.  The first fashion show was located at the Museo Nazionale Della Scienza E Della Technologia on Via Olona.  We first walked in downstairs and were welcomed by a large ship placed inside the building surrounded by anchors and the Gazzarrini collection.  We walked back upstairs to wait outside and had another chance to people watch. There was more of an international representation at this show than the Iceberg show. They presented themselves in more of a professional manner with suits and cocktail dresses.

           

Downstairs where the models got ready for the show

Once I walked into the building we were treated with some pastries and drinks around the ship and planes. It’s incredible where fashion shows take place and how the location is key to the meaning of the collection. I ended up speaking to a Fashion Stylist named Michelle Kling who is a student at Principessa Hannover.  She actually said she recognized me from the Iceberg show because of the white lace dress I was wearing. That’s not something you hear everyday! She mentioned that in Italy it is hard to become a stylist because the Italians believe they know what they are doing and pick the same common brands. This opened my eyes a little bit because it’s true. Just because the name is well known doesn’t necessarily mean it is the best fashion. She explained in more detail what to expect from Gazzarrini since I have never seen anything from them. A lot of simple designs with innovative fit is what Michelle promised I’d see.

          



















The male ushers wore suits with a piece of fabric wrapped from their left shoulder blade down to the right side of the stomach and the women wore vests with no center back piece. These were two outfits that stood out for me because it gave me an introduction of what to expect from Gazzarrini; unconventional tailoring.

            We were standing up but three of us had the chance to sit right next to the entrance in the second row. I am surprised that no one was sitting there since they are reserved for important people in the industry. I soaked it all in and sat right next to the stairs and was able to see each model walk up from downstairs. In comparison from Iceberg, this catwalk was brighter with more neutral tones and wrapped around the room.

            The music came on and the lights dimmed and thanks to yesterday, I knew the show was about to start.  The models had sharp features and clean cut faces as they presented the newest trends. Giuseppe Ceccarelli, the stylist for the catwalk, incorporated the overall inspiration of the collection into the outfits and Marco Bastianon created a funky soundtrack for every step. The Spring/ Summer 2012 collection reflects the latest trends, the points of contrast and the blend between the West and the East. It combined everyday experiences with contemporary refined fabric. The materials and shapes symbolized the landscape of different worlds and the clothes are characterized by neutral tones such as beige, bamboo, brown with soft shades of light green, Ceylon yellow and brick red.  The high waisted pants were loosely fit with button closures and fell right before the ankle bone to again, emphasize the shoes and socks. All of this emphasis on the ankle and shoe makes me believe that shoes and socks will become the focal piece for both men and women.

            Michelle was right, the items were basic but the fit, fabric and tailoring were innovative. There was a brown leather windbreaker, lime green socks that showed from their shoes, elastic waist on a tailored coat, blazers and distressed oxfords. The colors were neutral therefore it was full of grays, blues, beiges, camel and with a hint of lime green. One of the models wore a shirt with a tassel hanging from the bottom; few wore scarves that were tucked into the shirt instead of exposing it. The textures of the fabric, the extra long pockets and the combination of fabric also made this collection an expression of the East & West history and modern architecture.

            The location of the fashion show made more sense at the end of the show. It held all forms of architecture and the planes represented travel and the influence of the world. One model actually walked with a leather journal. Maybe it represented travel and memories. The show was a very simple but expressed an enormous story about the importance of history that it all can be seen in the texture of the fabric and the fit. 

On June 21st

The Spring/Summer 2012 collection has melted the Iceberg

     John Richmond, designer of Iceberg showed us a new more sophisticated side of grunge today. It’s the middle of Milan Fashion Week and we had the opportunity to sit through a fashion show. I only see this on the computer, magazines or TV but now I can have my first hand experience and enjoy a fashion show from one of my favorite designers.

Iceberg Spring/Summer 2012 Show Invitation

            We arrived in Brera, Milan at 10 via Palermo and first saw a group of people, most likely back stage crew, waiting outside all dressed in black.  We were definitely at the show. I wasn’t sure what to expect but I was surprised that a normal building on the street actually holds an area for a fashion show.  Just like any fashion show, the designer says it starts at 11:00 that might mean noon.  It’s the one thing I didn’t understand about this part of the industry because every second is valuable and costly, how is it possible to be carefree about the time? I did not mind, I was taking in everything around me. When will I have this chance again?

            The entrance had two body guards checking people on the list, cars from Camera della Moda stopped to drop off reporters and press and street team handing out trend books and newspapers about yesterdays fashion show.  The wait was the perfect time to catch up on prime people watching. I saw some men and women dressed in the latest trends effortlessly entering the building. As anyone studying fashion, looking and analyzing people’s outfits, actions and mannerisms are all key to finding trends. 

 The overall style for men was upper casual with nice fitted slacks or shorts with a woven button down layered with a tailored blazer than finished with visible socks in loafers, oxfords or high top sneakers.  Women wore upper casual clothing as well wearing dresses, skirts or nice slacks. Layering with scarves, jewelry and purses made each outfit express something different. Overall, the shoes tied the outfit together for a fresh and crisp finish.

            

It was time to go in and my heart started to race. We were directed by an usher to our seats and as he opened the curtains it was official.  As we found our area I scoped out the entire room for familiar faces and caught one; the president of Camera della Moda right at the end of the runway. I think the best seat of the show is the end by the photographers because the model must pose for the camera and allows longer time to take everything in.  Once the lights dimmed it was show time. The drum music came on and all the models lined up by the backdrop facing the crowd and ready to walk down the runway. The models were grungy with a short beard and a bun on their heads while some were clean cut with a comb over. 

   The overall look appeared to have 1930’s influence. Major trends seen at the show are pants with some wrinkle affect that are cuffed to show off their shoes mainly oxfords in grays and sand color. 

There was a variety of cardigans and sweaters either tailored or cable knit over a low scoop neck shirt. Blazers and light jackets were seen heavily on the runway in navy blue and gray. Stripes and soft plaids patterns were shown but in a more unconventional way. 

For example; there was a woven shirt with one strip of blue down the buttons while the rest was white, a navy blue knit sweater that had different levels due to the stripes of different fabric.  The colors were neutral with shades of gray, blue and sand with a pop of maroon, coral red and mustard yellow. 

This was my first fashion show and I learned a lot of basics. Firstly, when a model does not meet their mark the crowd boos. I first thought it was probably because they didn’t like the outfit but it was actually because the photographers rely on it to take their pictures.

It took all of 20-25 minutes to finish the show and as soon as it was done, the crowd cleared out in 5 minutes. I was left with a huge rush of adrenaline and wanting more. I’ve always appreciated men’s clothing but this show just increased my interest. Fashion shows is the best area to see how to style together an outfit, which is always necessary in any area.

       We ended our day at NABA where we received fantastic news that we will be attending two more fashion shows tomorrow! Incredible surprise! Gazzarrini and Enrico Coveri, I will be seeing you tomorrow!

On June 20th